Cut & Sewn | The Hundreds Public Label Winter'10


The Hundreds is what originally kicked started my role into the fashion/streetwear world. I was infatuated with the originality and creativity a tee shirt could bring to your image. I remember the first tee shirt I bought from Momentum 8th Street, 'Drawing Black Lines' were printed on the back; being really into painting and drawing... I liked it alot. 


After 13 seasons of heavy representation of The Hundreds goods billboarded over my body. I found myself growing up and out of the typical streetwear look that The Hundreds had been known for in the past. They have always been inspired by hip-hop, skateboarding, surf, punk cultures all reminiscent in the 80's to millennium; all things that I have been influenced by. But lately I have found that I have been leaning towards a more classy, fashionable image.

Years ago, when the first couple cut & sew pieces (selvedge denim, wovens, custom fleece and outerwear) were introduced to The Hundreds line-ups the original concept was to title the collections "Public Label" to give it different look and attract a whole new audience that maybe weren't interested in buying a graphic tee, hoodie or hat. But they ditched the "Public Label" title and released The Hundreds as a whole.


They are bringing "Public Label" as its own line. Focusing on a collection of higher-end, concept driven, wearable goods. A mature look for a modern man; who is into sophisticated looks, quality with palatable colors, and focused on what is 'now' in the fashion world. I truly am stoked on this, I have been more interested on dressing mature, and fashion oriented. I also can appreciate when a brand can properly conduct a concept or look. The Hundreds did not miss a hint of creativity or uniqueness while executing a new concept; important to anyone focused on what is now.


















Fresh Off The Press | My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy


In his latest album, Kanye West has once again proved why he is a true pioneer in hip-hop. Unlike many of his contemporaries, Kanye has never made the same album twice. His production/musical style has always built onto itself and changed, while the rest of hip-hop has scrambled to keep up.

Ye's debut album College Dropout not only brought back the soul sample, but at the same time proved that soulful beats could be hits with the masses. A year later on Late Registration, Kanye brought in Jon Brion to refine his production with a more orchestral sound, while still keeping his soulful roots. Also worth noting is the fact that Kanye collaborated with acclaimed producer Just Blaze for Touch the Sky, something Kanye had never done before. 2 years after that, Kanye once-again raised the bar with Graduation, infusing synth-heavy electro-pop/rock with his polished sped up soul samples, working with producer DJ Toomp on several tracks. Definitely a triumphant album. Now we all know what happened next... Kanye's mother passed away, and he made what is widely regarded as his worst album to date. Although I wasn't particularly fond of 808's and Heartbreak (repetitive lyrics and heavy Auto-tune anyone?), it did give Kanye experience with the vocoder, and more complex drum patterns. Despite my qualms with the instrumentals, it contained some of Kanye's most emotionally compelling work so far. A hit and a miss effort. My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy is the culmination of all of Kanye's influences and experiences. It incorporates everything that worked and failed for Kanye in the past, resulting in one of the most unique hip-hop albums ever created.

1. Dark Fantasy: Kanye's albums have generally started off with impressive intros, and this RZA and No I.D. co-produced track is no exception. Nicki Minaj narrates in a faux-British accent before Charlie Wilson and Keri Hilson-esque vocals harmonize the chorus: "Can we get much higher? So high..." Kanye spits some of his finest trademark quotables over an incredibly infectious piano and synth loop : "The plan was, to drink until the pain over/ but what's worse, the pain or the hangover?/ Fresh air, rollin' down the window/ Too many Urkels on your team, that's why your Winslow." Arguably my favorite track on the album.

2. Gorgeous ft. Kid Cudi & Raekwon: This is a debut of a new musical style for Kanye. A laid-back track featuring a smooth guitar loop, a soft high-hat, and Kid Cudi handling the hook quite well, working within his rather limited vocal range. Kanye preaches his usual arrogant minutiae ala Graduation's The Glory that we all expect and love via distorted vocals. The true highlight of the track comes from Raekwon, who works emcee magic whilst being accompanied by electric guitar.

3. Power ft. Dwele: The perfect example of all of Kanye's musical techniques coming together in one song. You've got a powerful soul sample, polished orchestral strings, distorted vocals and a cinematic breakdown of the beat near the end. A perfect musical backdrop for Ye' to stunt while confessing his frustrations: "I just needed time alone, with my own thoughts/ Got treasures in my mind but couldn't open up my own vault/My childlike creativity, purity and honesty/ is honestly being crowded by these grown thoughts." Epic, and more chaotic than Kanye's previous collaboration with Dwele on Flashing Lights.

4. All of the Lights Interlude: An excellent prelude that sounds like something you'd hear at a symphony orchestra. The haunting strings sound so despairing that you'll be completely caught off-guard for the insanity that comes next...

5. All of the Lights: The "Stronger" of MBDTF, and one of the most overwhelming works from Mr. West. It's a blaring anthem with loud triumphant horns, and has one of the most INSANE drum patterns I've ever heard in hip-hop. The features here are so random, it seems as though Kanye picked them out of a hat. All of the Lights is a sonic masterpiece; a song that sets a new standard for producers everywhere.

6. Monster ft. Jay-Z, Rick Ross, Nicki Minaj & Bon Iver: This track is one of the many posse cuts from G.O.O.D Fridays. Everyone featured, with the exception of Rick Ross, contribute to the track very nicely. The true winner here is Nicki Minaj, who manages to outshine both Jay-Z and Kanye with a wild and animated verse.

7. So Appalled ft. Jay-Z, Pusha T, Prynce Cy Hi, Swizz Beatz & The RZA: A posse cut from G.O.O.D Fridays that could've used one or two less features. Although Kanye, Jay, Pusha and Cy Hi satisfy with some very clever rhymes, Swizz and RZA's inclusions on the hook are completely unnecessary. It's a confusing move, making you wonder why they weren't given any verses (especially RZA). Despite these shortcomings, the dark beat fits in well with the tone of the album, and makes good use of Kanye's signature sampling.

8. Devil in a New Dress ft. Rick Ross: A gloomy soulful track produced by Bink!, one of the musical architects of Jay-Z's The Blueprint. Kanye sounds at his most natural here, delivering some great rhymes: "Hood phenomenon, the Lebron of rhyme/ Hard to be humble when you stuntin' on a jumbotron.""I hit the Jamaican spot, at the bar, take a seat/ I ordered the jerk, she said you are what you eat." Unlike on Monster, Rick Ross' feature is well-earned with his verses on what is undoubtedly my favourite beat breakdown on the whole album.

9. Runaway ft. Pusha T: This is the longest song on the album, and is (of course) an ode to himself and other douchebags (his critics perhaps?): "Let's have a toast for the douchebags, Let's have a toast for the assholes, Let's have a toast for the scumbags, and every one of them that I know/ Let's have a toast to the jerkoffs, that never take work off/ Baby I got a plan, run away as fast as you can..." It's a good thing Kanye chose to keep some of the samples used in the VMA performance, because they end up enriching the final product. Clocking in at 9 minutes, you'd expect for the song to become tedious, but Kanye knowingly breaks down his piano and synth beat roughly halfway through. Kanye also takes autotune in a new direction, by harmonizing his heavily distorted voice with sombre violin strings to haunting effect.

10. Hell of A Life: An angry and synth-heavy anthem that succeeds in being one of Kanye's most offensive songs yet. Kanye doesn't hold back, chronicling his wildest dreams: "One day I'm gon' marry a porn star/ We'll have a big ass crib and a long yard/ We'll have a mansion and some fly maids/ Nothin' to hide, we both screwed the bridesmaid." Kanye's pants of exhaustion near the end of the track reveal signs of regret in his lifestyle; an interesting addition to the song that makes Kanye seem much more sensitive, despite all evidence towards the contrary.

11. Blame Game ft. John Legend: A definite contender as my favourite track on the album, and also a testament to Kanye's growth as a songwriter. The despairing strings and somber keys create a beautiful backdrop which Kanye uses to vent: "On the bathroom wall I wrote: I'd rather argue with you than be with someone else/I took a piss and dismiss it, like fuck it, and I went and found somebody else/ Fuck arguing or harvesting the feelings, yo I'd rather be by my fuckin' self/Till about 2 AM and I call back and I hang up and blame myself... somebody help." With John Legend's soulful vocals on such a sorrowful song, his performance on the hook couldn't go wrong. Chris Rock also makes an appearance, bringing some humour to an otherwise bitter track.

12. Lost in the World ft. Bon Iver/ Who Will Survive in America: For those who have seen Runaway (the short film that accompanies the deluxe edition of the album), this track will undoubtedly remind you of the climax in the film. This track samples Bon Iver's song "Woods", making it a grandiose affair, by building on top of it with upbeat drums and vocal samples. Lost in the World also features Kanye's favourite verse he's ever written: "You're my devil, you're my angel/ You're my heaven, you're my hell/You're my now, you're my forever/ You're my freedom, you're my jail/You're my lies, you're my truth / You're my war, you're my truce/You're my questions, you're my proof/You're my stress and you're my masseuse." *sigh* That’s beautiful, and one of the reasons why Lost is one of my favourite Kanye tracks EVER. Who Will Survive in America is an excellent outro, featuring a preaching Gil Scott Heron. It uses the same instrumental as Lost in the World, but gradually breaks it down until there is only silence, followed by slightly awkward applause. A fitting end to Kanye's most shocking and daring work to date.

9.5/10

Fotography Fridays | Ryan Lusteg

I just found out about Lusteg's work about a week or so ago. I really like his art. He doesn't really have a set style of photography. Some photographers are really good at capturing feelings, some are good at capturing unique situations. It's pretty cool that he is super well known for his work in the skate world, but then I checked out his other works. And this is what intrigued me:


Anciet Mayan Cenote - This is so fucking cool. I love the colours.


Bird - Almost looks like a painting. Colours are crazy.


BJ the Chicago Kid - Reminds me of summer. 


Jamie Thomas - This is my favorite skate photo. Reminds me of skateboarding all alone in my garage, good times.


Levi Maestro - Super dope photo, I like the way he captured feeling.


Levi Maestro - I guess this was shot in Hawaii. I like the irony: "Under Achieving Loners". ahha


Levi Maestro - Another dope photo in Hawaii at sunset.


Mycole - Remember him?


Nelly the mouse - I hope this is a pet.

Music Visual | Locals Only

Here is the official video short-film for Dom Kennedy's second single off of his most recent mixtape: "Westside With Love". The talented creators at The Top Shelf Company shot this amazing in-depth visual to accompany his ever so talented flow.

In "Locals Only", Dom is captured in train stations waiting for a train.  The chorus being "When the train stops this time // I'm gonna catch it" it seems perfect for the video to be taken place in a train station, but if you think past the lyrics; you can understand the true meaning: anticipating the next step, and making the progression. While Dom is on the train he sits next to this beautiful woman and eventually makes small talk, and she gets his number. Although, when they arrive, she is greeted by a man; Sometimes when anticipating the next step, it changes... so work with the change and move on.



I hope you liked my 'take' on it. If you think I made no sense at all, hope you noticed the verse at the end of the video, which was not in the original track! #hype

Fotography Fridays | Ryan McGinley & Zered Bassett











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The Joy ft. Pete Rock, Kanye West, Jay-Z, Charlie Wilson, Curtis Mayfield & Kid Cudi

Thank you Kanye, for delivering on G.O.O.D Fridays. For the first time ever, Jay-Z spits over a smooth Pete Rock beat. Bring on Kanye West and Jay-Z's Watch The Throne and that Pete Rock vs. DJ Premier project! Happy Halloween weekend and ListenUp!

G.O.O.D. Fridays

If you don't already know about this... You must be asleep.

Kanye has been releasing 'hype' tracks every Friday for free on his website. Collaborating with the best, on the dopest beats. Here is what he has laid down:



Tomorrow is Friday. Get hyped. ListenUp.

Duck Sauce - Barbra Streisand (Official Music Video)

DJ A-Trak + DJ Armand Van Helden = Duck Sauce. This song is so catchy! Peep the Boney M sample and cameos from a host of musical artists like Pharrell, Kanye West, ?uestlove and DJ Premier. ListenUp!

Runaway

Creativity is a mental process involving the discovery of new ideas or concepts. Thinking for yourself, and your art. Being abstract, and thinking outside the box. Pushing all boundaries over, not letting critics let you think differently.

As you may, or may not have known; Kanye West has recently released his newest endeavor, "Runaway". A short 34-minute film shot in Prague, directed/starred/story by Mr. West. Showcasing, his creativity/ideas/story all while... endorsing his ever-so celebrated 5th studio album: "My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy"(releasing November 23rd). The movie features quite a few songs, that will be featured on the new album; including "All Of The Lights", featuring an abundant of artists.

Kanye presents an endless amount of colour in each scene, each with different meanings(?). He used a lot of colour that all seemed to work well together: mauve, teal, off white, salmon, taupe and cream; to name a few. If you look at Ye's other work: Yeezy's, Louie Vuitton shoes, past album art, and his style; you can see the similarities. Kanye is a visionary, that's why he can get away with producing any medium of art (Artist, Designer, Director, Musician, Producer, Writter). The 'dining' scene showcases a large amount of African American men and women, being served by caucasian men and women; which is stirring up some peoples views. But, Ye assured that, he wasn't the vision behind that scene.

The whole story is placed around the character "Phoenix"(played by the gorgeous: Selita Ebanks), who fell from the sky in a burning fireball. Mr. West's character ("Griffin") rescues her. While the Phoenix is on earth, she is treated different in the social environments. But, at the same time she teaches him about 'rising from the ashes' as she returns home. This whole idea of a "Phoenix" is purely based on a metaphor. As we all know, Kanye disappeared from the 'limelight' after the biggest story of 2009. His career was 'turned to ashes' as he left the country to work on his creativity, views, and personal life; to avoid all contact with media. Now, Kanye's career is so large and excepted by many as he 'rises from the ashes'. 

If you haven't seen the film, check it out: ListenUp. Put your own feelings and ideas of the movie into your head, take it how you want.


After the movie aired on BET & MTV, Kanye met up with Rocsi (BET) and Sway (MTV); to answer questions about the film. Including speaking about: "Watch The Throne", rock music, his creative process, his mother, G.O.O.D. Music roster, G.O.O.D. Fridays, and the 5th studio album "My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy".

















We Can Do It Now - Common, Lupe Fiasco & Jennifer Hudson

Not sure what this project is for, but regardless, this song is mad nice. Common and Lupe do their thing, Jennifer Hudson on the hook, No I.D. on the boards. ListenUp.

G.O.O.D. Music / Rosewood

This is soooo G.O.O.D!

Check out this video of Big Sean and G.O.O.D. Music/Rosewood on the set at XXL. They were recently featured in this month's issue. Go pick up a copy, I got mine. G.O.O.D. Music is on fire right now.